As I mentioned in my Production Design predictions, Catherine Martin is 2/2 in this category and PD (for 2001’s Moulin Rouge! and 2013’s The Great Gatsby) but I think we’ll finally see a split for her here.
With BAFTA and the Costume Designers Guild (CDG) under her chunky yet chic belt, Martin feels like the frontrunner here for Elvis. Whether it was Austin Butler’s pink suit at the beginning, his black leather number from the 1968 comeback special or the dozens of astonishing recreations of his Las Vegas era, it’s an over the top cornucopia of jumpsuits and more. But it’s not just about Butler titular star; Tom Hanks, Kodi Smit-McPhee, David Wenham, Olivia DeJonge and more are given vibrant, eye-popping outfits throughout as are a cast of hundreds of background actors.
Babylon takes great liberties with 1920’s Hollywood and it paid off for Mary Zophres with her nomination here. While Margot Robbie’s costumes are the most front and center, hundreds upon hundreds of extras are outfitted in not just period garb of the time, but all periods of history as the behind the scenes of movie making is on full display here. Plus, Jean Smart’s headpiece in the film’s coke-filled dance-orgy extravaganza is to die for.
In the last 10 years, Costume Design and Production Design have gone to the same film four times; three years in a row from 2013-2015 and in 2018 for Black Panther. So there’s not really a consistent historical context to grab onto to say that either Elvis or Babylon will take them both but one of them could.
Ruth E. Carter made history when she won for 2018’s Black Panther as the first Black woman to win the category and she’s back this year for its sequel and arguably for much bigger, and better, looks. She has Critics’ Choice but there doesn’t feel like a push for her to win again. But, speaking of headpieces… Angela. Bassett.
The surprise nomination for Everything Everywhere All At Once (especially considering the places it missed out) is one of this year’s best and Shirley Kurata’s time and universe-jumping looks from Jamie Lee Curtis’s frumpy IRS agent to Michelle Yeoh’s stunning beaded gown to Stephanie Hsu’s elaborately wild sci-fi looks are a great example range that voters could grab onto if they’re looking for the film to sweep.
Jenny Beavan’s detail and period-specific looks of 1950s London and Dior are perfect…for a nomination. Even as the winner here last year (for Cruella), Mrs. Harris Goes to Paris brings up the rear as a fifth place finisher.
Here are my final 2023 Oscar winner predictions for Costume Design.
1. Elvis (Warner Bros) – BAFTA, CDG, CCA Catherine Martin |
2. Babylon (Paramount Pictures) – BAFTA, CDG, CCA Mary Zophres |
3. Black Panther: Wakanda Forever (Walt Disney/Marvel Studios) – CDG, CCA Ruth E. Carter |
4. Everything Everywhere All At Once (A24) – CDG, CCA Shirley Kurata |
5. Mrs. Harris Goes to Paris (Focus Features) – BAFTA, CDG Jenny Beavan |
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